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Southern California Garden Guide
for the
Month of September

September is our transition into Fall here in Southern California. Although the nights may begin to cool off, the days are still warm and it's not uncommon to have short blasts of extremely hot weather and Santa Ana winds. Over the next two or three months, we switch from summer-blooming to winter-blooming annuals and from warm-season to cool-season vegetables. This is not an abrupt change but a slow transition. Start cleaning out faded flowers and vegetables, but leave the good ones in place to enjoy as long as they last. If in August you did not sow seeds for transplants, do it now (see the August Garden Guide).

Now is the time to prepare the soil and to begin to plant but don't rush the planting at the expense of preparing your soil well. Remember, October is the best month for planting so you have time. The basis for every good garden is the soil; if you take care of the soil, you won't have to worry about the plants. The steps differ depending on whether you're starting a new planting bed or replanting an existing one.

Soil Preparation for New Beds
Start by turning the soil and watering deeply, continue to water and wait at least two weeks. The loose soil and water should germinate most of weed seeds in the soil. Weed these opportunistic buggers out now and you should have an easier time keeping the bed weed-free later. Before planting, finish with the soil preparation steps for existing beds which follows.

To summarize:
Turn...Water...Wait...Weed

Soil Preparation for Existing Beds
Loosen the soil and add a three-inch to four-inch layer of organic material. This can be home-made compost, bagged compost or planting mix. If you have a heavy clay soil, add some gypsum; it helps to break up the clay (about 10 pounds for every 100 sq.ft). To replenish the nitrogen in the soil, add bloodmeal, cottonseed meal or some well-composted manure. To replenish the phosphorus in the soil, add phosphate or bone meal (Note: Since phosphorus is water-insoluble and nearly immobile in the soil, it should be added now when it can be thoroughly mixed into the soil. It's possible (but not recommended) to add the other soil amendments by just dumping them on top of the soil but not phosphorus). To figure out how much of each of these amendments you should add, follow the instructions on the label. When all the amendments have been added, mix them thoroughly into the soil with a spade or spading fork. Now, you're ready to plant.

To summarize:
Loosen...Add organics...Add gypsum (if needed)...Add nitrogen...Add phosphorus...Mix thoroughly...Start planting!
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Bulbs start showing up in the local nurseries in mid-September. Buy bulbs early while the selection is best. Some of these bulbs should be planted in September while others are best planted later in the Fall.

Bulbs to plant now

While most daffodils (Narcissus) are best planted in November, Tazetta and Tazetta hybrids should be planted in September. These superb polyanthus or bunch-flower daffodils include paper whites, Golden Dawn, Soleil d'Or and Matador. These daffodils readily naturalize and often spread over a large area. Also purchase and plant in September the many wonderful drought-resistant bulbs and corms from South Africa that are so well-adapted to our climate such as freesia, sparaxis, ixia, tritonia, watsonia and nerine.

Bulbs to plant later

Daffodils, anemones, rununculus, Dutch iris, muscari (grape hycinthia), tulips, spring-blooming crocus and hycynthia should be brought home and stored in a cool dark place; The garage usually works well. Most of these should be planted in November except for the tulips, crocus and hyacinths which need to be refrigerated for 6 to 8 weeks before planting. If you garden inland, start chilling in October for December planting. If you're along the coast, start chilling in November for January planting.

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New Plantings

 Sweet Peas. For sweet peas by December, plant seeds now. Look for varieties designated "early flowering." Spring or Summer-flowering types won't bloom until the days are more than twelve hours long. To speed germination, soak seeds overnight before planting. Provide a trellis for vines to climb.

 Peas. Choose a good variety. There are three basic type of peas, snow peas, snap peas and English peas. The first two have edible pods, English peas have to be shelled. Peas need a trellis for vines to climb. Unless you've grown peas in the same place within the last 3 years or plan to fertilize with nitrogen, inoculate the seed with rhizobia. The rhizobia allows the legume to pull nitrogen from the air and is available from most seed catalogs and nurseries.

 Cool-season Vegetables. Plant cool-season vegetables such as broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, lettuce and other greens.

 Cool-season Flowers. Plant cool-season flowers. This includes calendula, cineraria, dianthus, delphiniums, Iceland poppies, nemesia, pansies, snapdragon, stock, wild flowers.

 Spring-flowering bulbs. Plant drought-resistant South African bulbs and corms and Tazetta and Tazetta hybrids (Narcissus). Store other Narcissus and Spring-flowering bulbs for later planting.

 Irises. Plant bearded iris rhizomes in areas that get at least a half-day of sun. (If you're in San Diego check out the "San Diego/Imperial County Iris Society Plant Sale")

Garden Maintenance

 Amaryllis Belladonna. Dig up and divide Amaryllis belladonna (Naked Ladies) after they bloom but before new roots and foliage have begun to grow. If the bulbs are transplanted during this brief period of dormancy, next year's flowering will not be interrupted.

 Camellias. Keep camellias well watered this month. Letting them go dry will cause the buds to drop off, depriving you of their beautiful blooms. Some varieties of camellias form a great many more buds than they can support and so will naturally drop buds. The naturally-dropped bud will be green whereas a water-stressed plant will drop brown buds. For the largest flowers, you can start "disbudding" camellias now by removing all but one flower bud from each cluster. Be careful not to remove the growth bud. Growth buds are thin and pointed; flower buds are round and fat.

 Citrus. Make sure citrus trees are adequately and evenly watered during this month. If the roots go dry, the result can be split fruits.

 Cymbidiums. Switch cymbidiums to a lower nitrogen, higher phosphorous & potassium fertilizer to encourage development of bloom spikes. If your cymbidium leaves are dark green, chances are that they're in too much shade. Bring them out into more light until their leaves turn a yellowish color.

 Hydrangeas. If you want to maintain a "blue" hydrangea or change your hydrangea's color, you need to start now; Once they start developing buds, it's too late. Not all hydrangeas can be made blue. White varieties always stay white and some pinks turn purple instead of blue. The "flowers" on your hydrangea are really modified leaves called bracts, just like the so-called flowers of poinsettias. The hydrangea bract color can be modified by adjusting the pH of the soil. A pH 4.5 to 5.0 yields blue flowers, a pH 5.5 to 6.5 yields mauve, and a pH 7.0 to 7.5 yields pink. Test the pH of the soil around the root run of the plant with a soil test kit or litmus paper. Sulphur or aluminum sulfate can be used to lower soil pH. Liberal use of compost will also aid in reducing soil pH.

 Irises. Clean up the iris beds now. Cut off damaged leaves, remove debris and mulch beds. Irises will not bloom if over-crowded and need to divided about every three years. If your irises need dividing, do it now.

 Oleanders. Oleanders can be pruned now after bloom. Pruning in the Spring instead of the Fall may reduce Spring bloom. Prune oleander back severely, don't chop off tops like a hedge. This fails to renew the plant and all you get is a unattractive hedge with no flowers.

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